• 1 size 16 Tapestry Needle (These have a very large eye. They're bigger than one would usually use for bookbinding but they're easier to thread. I purchase them at JoAnn Fabrics in packs of 5 for $1.25.)

• 1 nail (to make holes for Japanese bindings)

• 1 small pencil (for marking the holes)

• 1 push pin (to make holes for pamphlet binding)

• 1 small piece of cardboard about 2"x 4" (to protect the table when making holes for a pamphlet binding) 

* Blocks of Wood: about 3" x 8" x 1" each. They are used with the nail to make
holes for a Japanese binding in sets of two, one to protect the table, the other as a hammer. 

* Scrap Paper: for gluing. I use old phone book pages, old catalog pages (watch out for underwear), or used 8 1/2" x 11" paper. 

* Rulers: Although I try to avoid measuring, I sometimes use them to mark the holes for the Oriental sewn binding. An alternative is to make strips of oaktag or cover stock to use as a guide. I make mine 1/2" wide and the height of the book. I mark where I want the holes. 


MATERIALS

In the studio, I store my materials in plastic drawers that I purchased in WalMart. When I travel, I pack the materials in Rubbermaid boxes with lids.

*Paper: There are two issues with paper. One is getting the paper and the second is cutting it. When I first started teaching, I was spending many more hours cutting paper than I was actually teaching. Now I buy all my paper precut from a printer. For lightweight text paper for the inside of books, copy paper or drawing paper work well. If you use construction paper, try to get a good quality brand, such as Tru-Ray. The colors are usually more vibrant and the paper is smoother. Try to avoid the cheap stuff; it tends to tear along the folds and fades quickly. For covers use posterboard, oaktag, or cover stock from a printer- my choice. You can try local printers for donations. You can also purchase directly from them, as I do. If your 
school system has a printing or graphic arts program, they may be able to  provide and/or cut the paper for you.

It's very helpful to standardize your sizes. You don't want to have different sizes for every project. What use are the extra sheets? If you always make accordion books from a certain size, you can save the leftover pieces for the next project.

* Yarn: best for books that use knots to hold them together. Ribbon is too slippery to hold. I buy it at K-Mart or WalMart. There are a lot of interesting variegated yarns available. 

* Ribbon: I use it for ties on accordion books. I am always keeping my eyes open for cheap ribbon. I can usually find 10 yard rolls for $.44 at WalMart. JoAnn Fabrics and the Ribbon Outlet occasionally have 3/$1.00 sales. Buy lots when the price is right if you can.

*Thread for sewing: Crochet cotton, Dental Floss, Carpet thread In bookbinding, thread is waxed before sewing by pulling it through a piece of beeswax. It strengthens the thread and makes it less likely to tangle. I usually don't bother.

* Cutting Yarn, Ribbon, and Thread: To save time cutting, I have pieces of heavy corrugated cardboard cut to specific lengths. I wrap the yarn or ribbon around the cardboard, then cut it at the top and bottom.

* Pony Beads: for palm leaf books and wish scrolls and to have fun tying them onto any book. I buy them at WalMart. I store them in ziploc bags. For class use, I pour them into small plastic cups such as used applesauce containers. 

* Film Containers: I use empty film containers for the wish scrolls from Ethiopia. Places that print photos on the premises usually have lots that they recycle. They should be willing to give you quantities for free.


ILLUSTRATIONS

* Collage Papers: I cut up any interesting colored paper- wrapping paper, paper bags, origami paper, art papers, etc.- into squares of about 3" and keep them in a plastic box. I find that the smaller size wastes less paper and seems to stimulate creativity in a way that large pieces of paper don't.

* Rubber Stamps: Rubber stamps are fun sources of imagery. They can be used for pictures or for pattern in borders. They provide an alternative for those lacking in artistic confidence. They are expensive, but I think worth the investment. However, kids can make a mess of them quickly as the ink from the stamp pads gets on their fingers and then onto everything else. I cover the top of my stamps with clear contact paper before I let anyone use them. I sort my stamps by theme- Flowers and Leaves, Animals, In the Sky, Dinosaurs, Patterns, etc.- and keep them on plastic plates. On each plate, I put a label with the Theme and cover it with clear contact paper. I store each plate in its own ziploc bag with a label covered with clear contact paper. I ask students to wipe the stamps on a piece of scrap paper after each use, 
but I don't do any additional cleaning.

*Stamp Pads: I use stamp pads from office supply places. The pigment stamp pads that are sold at stamp stores have better colors, but they are kind of gooey and can really make a mess. They require more vigilant cleaning.

* Stencils: Dover Little Activity Books has a series of Fun with Stencils books. They are 4 3/16" x 5 1/2" and have 6 pre-cut stencils. There are ones on Dinosaurs, Flowers, Northwest Indian, Pirates, Egypt, and many more. I've seen them in bookstores, card shops, and toy stores. I order mine directly from Dover Publications, Inc., 31 East 2nd Street, Mineola, NY 11501 for the largest selection. I also buy letter stencils and other plastic stencils. I have made stencils by tracing cookie cutters onto poster board, cutting the image with an exacto knife, and protecting them with clear contact paper. I also made a series of sea life stencils by tracing pictures from books and transferring them to poster board. I received a suggestion to use plastic container lids for a more durable stencil, but I haven't tried it yet.

* Markers: I like markers for writing and for the vibrancy of color in drawing. However, they can bleed through so I test the marker first on an extra piece of paper if I am going to be writing on both sides of the paper. Because a lot of the pages are small, it's good to have some with smaller tips. For the writing, it may be helpful to write the text lightly in pencil, proofread it, and then go over it in marker. Whiteout should be used cautiously. Test it first with the marker on scrap paper.

* Colored pencils: Colored pencils are a good choice. While they won't bleed through, some care should be taken to not press too hard when writing on both
sides of the paper. Drawings can be made in colored pencil or with a dark marker and colored in. I also like to color in rubber stamp images with colored pencils. 

THE TEACHING PROCESS

I've been making books in schools with kids for ten years. I often work with groups of fifty kids at a time. Here are some suggestions based on my experience.

*Break the process into the smallest and simplest steps possible. 

*Practice the process before you do it with the class. It will take some extra time, but think of it as an investment. If the experience is a positive one and the project works, you can use it again many ways and many times. When I develop a new project, I make the book several times, writing down the steps as I go. I try to get the language as precise as possible. Once I decide on the process, I rehearse it a few time out loud. 

*Be flexible. You may find that your directions are not as clear as you thought. Be prepared to adjust and change. Watch and listen to the kids. Sometimes they will do a step a better way. 

*If you want to talk to the kids first, do not put any materials on the table or you'll have to compete with simple things like scissors and glue sticks for their attention.

*Work in unison. Do not let anyone go ahead. I am a bit of a tyrant when I teach. I strictly enforce the don't- go-ahead rule. There's plenty of time for exercising creativity when the students do the contents of their books. The skills they are learning here are how to listen and follow directions.

*To save time, avoid measuring. If you're working on measuring as a skill, then using it in making books is great. If you want to make a book as quickly and as enjoyably as possible, forget the rulers. 

© 2000 Susan Kapuscinski Gaylord